Fit Fare

Growing up on the Gulf Coast of the United States, I ate a lot of seafood. An uncle owned a shrimp boat, so shellfish tended to dominate our menu. However, as I’ve grown older, fish has become my favorite food. We eat a lot of salmon, as much as three times a month. And I often wonder if that level of consumption is healthy for my husband and me.

Eating fish is a health bonus. Populations that regularly eat fish tend to live longer, with less disease than those populations that don’t eat it. Part of this could be due to fish containing less saturated fat than meat or dairy products, so substituting them with fish seems to be a plus. And cold water fish, such as salmon, mackerel, and sardines contain omega-3 fatty acids which may reduce the risk of many diseases.

Not only do we eat a lot of salmon in our household, we prefer wild salmon over the farmed variety. To me, there is no question that wild salmon tastes much better than farmed. It has a better texture and flavor. It’s also much more expensive, so a lot of people choose farmed salmon over wild. But is wild salmon healthier than farmed salmon?

Research conducted in 2005 by the British Foods Standards Agency shows that eating wild Pacific salmon is healthier than farmed Atlantic salmon, which contains higher levels of chemical contamination, such as dioxin and PCB’s. In fact, farmed salmon can have as much as ten times thelevels of pesticides, dioxin, and PCB’s than wild Pacific salmon. Levels of contamination are highest among European farmed salmon. Researchers recommend that consumers eat farmed salmon from Scotland, Norway and Eastern Canada no more than three times a year. Farmed salmon from Chile, Western Canada, and Washington state fares slightly better, with limits on consumption recommended at no more than six times a year. Wild salmon, on the other hand, can be safely eaten as often as once a week.

However, research by Cornell University found that farm fed salmon contain higher levels of omega-3, due to the type of food fed to the fish. Some farmed salmon had levels of omega-3 acids as much as three times higher than wild salmon.

What should a salmon lover to do in light of this information? Although farmed salmon has higher omega-3 acids, the risk from contaminants, particularly to younger adults, children and pregnant women clearly favors eating wild salmon instead. Chemicals such as dioxin and PCB collect in the body over time, increasing the risk of cancer and other diseases, so limiting them is a good idea.

I’ve always preferred wild salmon, even though it’s more expensive. It tastes much better, and I feel better knowing that it contains less contaminants. One of my favorite ways to fix salmon is a simple recipe of spice rubbed salmon that I adapted from a recipe I found at Williams-Sonoma. Wild salmon is so rich and full of flavor, I don’t think it’s flavor should be obscured with fancy sauces. This recipe is quick and the spices rubbed onto the fish complement the flavor, but don’t overwhelm it.

Spice Rubbed Wild Salmon (Adapted from Williams-Sonoma)

1 tsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1/2 tsp. fennel seeds
1 tsp. firmly packed light brown sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt (if you use regular salt, use less of it, as it’s more concentrated than kosher)
2 salmon fillets, each 6 to 8 ounces., with skin intact, pin bones removed
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Heat a small fry pan over medium-high heat. Put the coriander, cumin and fennel seeds in the pan and toast, stirring constantly, until golden brown and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the spices to a spice grinder or a mortar. Grind the spices using the grinder or a pestle. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the brown sugar and salt.

Place the salmon, skin side down, on a plate and rub the top of each fillet with the spice mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Heat a heavy non-stick skillet over medium high heat until hot. Place the salmon, skin side up, in the pan and sear for 2-3 minutes, until the salmon has browned nicely. Check several time by lifting the fish up slightly to see that it’s not burning. Flip the salmon over, skin side down, and continue cooking for about 4-5 minutes more until done. The thickness of your fish will determine when it’s done. Check to see if it’s done to your liking, by using the tip of a knife to look into the center of the salmon.

Transfer the salmon to warmed plates and serve immediately. Serves 2.